Taming the Tenacious: Your Ultimate Guide to Identifying & Removing Weeds in Driveway Cracks

Know Your Enemy: Identifying Common Driveway Weeds

• Crabgrass (Digitaria): This is probably one of the most infamous grassy weeds out there. It gets its name from its low-growing, crab-like appearance. Crabgrass thrives in hot, dry conditions, which is why it loves the heat that radiates off of driveways. It's an annual weed, meaning it completes its life cycle in one season, but it produces a massive amount of seeds that can lead to a bigger problem the following year.
• Annual Meadow Grass (Poa annua): This is another common grassy weed that you’ll often see in lawns &, you guessed it, driveway cracks. It’s a bit of a chameleon, as it can be both an annual & a perennial. It’s a shallow-rooted grass, which can make it a bit easier to remove than some of the other culprits on this list.

• Dandelions (Taraxacum officinale): Ah, the dandelion. With its bright yellow flower that turns into a fluffy white seed head, it's easily one of the most recognizable weeds. Dandelions have a long, thick taproot that can be a real pain to remove completely. If you leave even a small piece of the root behind, it can regenerate into a new plant. They're a perennial weed, meaning they'll come back year after year if not dealt with properly.
• Woodsorrel (Oxalis stricta): This weed is often mistaken for clover because of its heart-shaped leaves. It produces small, yellow, cup-like flowers & can be found in a wide range of conditions, including the cozy confines of your driveway cracks. It’s an annual, but it can also act as a tender perennial in some climates.
• Shepherd's Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris): This is a winter annual from the mustard family. You can identify it by its heart-shaped seedpods. This weed is a prolific self-seeder, & its seeds can remain viable in the soil for several years.
• White Clover (Trifolium repens): While some people don’t mind a bit of clover in their lawn, it can be a nuisance in driveways. It has the classic three-leaf structure & produces small white flowers. Clover is a perennial & can be quite resilient.
• Prostrate Spurge (Euphorbia maculata): This low-growing weed has a tell-tale reddish spot on its leaves. It has a long taproot that makes it difficult to pull out, especially from the tight quarters of a driveway crack. It also produces a sticky, white sap when broken, so you might want to wear gloves when handling it.
• Bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis): If you see a vine-like weed with arrowhead-shaped leaves & small, morning glory-type flowers, you’re likely dealing with bindweed. This is a particularly tough perennial weed to control due to its extensive root system.
• Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea): Also known as ground ivy, this weed has scalloped leaves & clusters of purple flowers. It gives off a minty smell when crushed. Creeping Charlie is a perennial that can be difficult to eradicate once it’s established.
• Pokeweed (Phytolacca americana): This is a large, leafy weed that produces clusters of white flowers & dark purple berries. While it’s more common in gardens, it can sometimes find its way into driveway cracks. It’s a perennial with a large taproot.
• Pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus): Pigweed is a tall weed with a taproot & hairy-looking green flower clusters. It's an annual that can be a real problem in gardens & can also pop up in driveways.

Let the Battle Begin: Methods for Removing Driveway Weeds

• Pros: It’s free, non-toxic, & allows for precise removal without harming any surrounding plants. It's also a great way to get some fresh air & exercise.
• Cons: It can be a labor-intensive & time-consuming process, especially if you have a large infestation. It can also be difficult to remove the entire root system, particularly for weeds with deep taproots like dandelions. If you don't get the whole root, the weed will likely grow back.
• Tips for Success:
  • Water the area beforehand. Pulling weeds from moist soil is much easier than trying to yank them from dry, compacted dirt.
  • Use the right tools. A small garden knife, a weeding tool, or even an old screwdriver can help you get under the weed & loosen the soil around the roots. There are also long-handled crack weeders that can save your back.
  • Get a good grip. Grab the weed at the base, as close to the soil as possible, & pull with a steady, gentle wiggling motion. The goal is to extract the entire root.

• Boiling Water: This is about as simple as it gets. Carefully pour a pot of boiling water directly onto the weeds. The intense heat will scald the plant & kill it, often down to the root.
  • Pros: It's completely non-toxic, inexpensive, & very effective, especially on young weeds.
  • Cons: It can take a few applications to kill more established weeds with long taproots. You also need to be careful not to burn yourself or any nearby plants you want to keep.
• Vinegar Solutions: A mixture of vinegar, salt, & dish soap can be a potent natural herbicide. The acetic acid in the vinegar dehydrates the plant, while the salt adds to the desiccating effect & the dish soap helps the mixture stick to the leaves.
  • Pros: It's a relatively inexpensive & easy-to-make solution using common household ingredients.
  • Cons: Household vinegar (usually 5% acetic acid) may not be strong enough to kill tougher weeds & may require multiple applications. Horticultural vinegar, which has a higher concentration of acetic acid, is more effective but can also be more hazardous to handle. Vinegar is non-selective, meaning it will kill any plant it comes into contact with, so you need to be careful with your application. It can also be harmful to beneficial insects & can alter the pH of the soil. Some sources also suggest that repeated use of salt can damage concrete over time.
• Baking Soda & Salt: Sprinkling baking soda or salt directly into the cracks can also be an effective way to kill weeds.
  • Pros: It’s an easy & inexpensive method.
  • Cons: Like vinegar, salt can damage concrete & the surrounding soil, so it should be used sparingly.
• Propane Torch: For those who like to play with fire, a propane torch can be a fun & effective way to get rid of weeds. The intense heat will incinerate the weeds on contact.
  • Pros: It’s a quick & effective method that kills both the weed & its seeds.
  • Cons: There’s an obvious fire risk, so you need to be extremely careful, especially in dry conditions. It’s also not a great option for those with a fear of open flames.

• Types of Herbicides:
  • Non-selective Herbicides: These are designed to kill any plant they come into contact with. They are a good option for driveways where you want to clear everything out. Glyphosate-based products like Roundup are a common example.
  • Selective Herbicides: These are formulated to target specific types of weeds without harming other plants. They are more commonly used in lawns & gardens.
  • Contact Herbicides: These kill only the parts of the plant they touch. They are good for quick, surface-level control but may not kill the root system.
  • Systemic Herbicides: These are absorbed by the plant & transported throughout its system, killing the entire plant, including the roots. They are a more permanent solution for tough perennial weeds.
  • Pre-emergent Herbicides: These are applied before the weeds start to grow & work by preventing the seeds from germinating. This is a great preventative measure.
• Pros: They are highly effective & can provide long-lasting results.
• Cons: They contain harsh chemicals that can be harmful to the environment, pets, & people if not used properly. There are also concerns about the long-term health effects of some herbicides like glyphosate.
• Safety Precautions:
  • ALWAYS read & follow the instructions on the label.
  • Wear protective gear, including gloves, goggles, & a mask.
  • Avoid spraying on windy days to prevent the herbicide from drifting onto other plants or into your neighbor’s yard.
  • Keep pets & children away from the treated area until it is completely dry.

The Best Defense is a Good Offense: Preventing Weeds in the First Place

• Seal the Cracks: This is the MOST effective way to prevent weeds from growing in your driveway. By filling in the cracks, you eliminate the space where seeds can germinate & take root.
  • Clean the Cracks: Before sealing, you need to thoroughly clean out the cracks. Use a pressure washer or a combination of a screwdriver & a shop vac to remove all the dirt, debris, & any remaining weed roots.
  • Use the Right Sealant: For concrete driveways, a flexible concrete caulk is a good option. For asphalt driveways, you'll want to use an asphalt-specific sealant.
• Polymeric Sand: If you have a paver driveway, polymeric sand is a game-changer. It’s a special type of sand that contains a polymer that hardens when you add water. It locks the pavers in place & creates a barrier that prevents weeds from growing through the joints.
• Regular Maintenance: A little bit of prevention can go a long way.
  • Sweep Regularly: Sweeping your driveway regularly can help to remove any seeds that have blown in before they have a chance to germinate.
  • Use a Pre-emergent Herbicide: Applying a pre-emergent herbicide in the spring can prevent weed seeds from sprouting.
  • Mind Your Landscaping: If you have garden beds or a lawn that borders your driveway, be mindful of any plants that are known to be aggressive self-seeders.

When to Call in the Pros

Tying it All Together