Your Car Has Been Sitting for Years: A Checklist Before You Try to Start It
So, there it is. The old project car, the hand-me-down from grandpa, or maybe just your daily driver that got parked during the pandemic & never quite made it back on the road. It’s been sitting for years, collecting dust, spiders, & probably some questionable odors. The temptation is HUGE to just throw a new battery in, turn the key, & hope for the best, right?
Honestly, that’s one of the worst things you can do.
As someone who's seen the aftermath of a "send it" mentality on a long-dormant car, I can tell you that a little patience & a thorough checklist will save you a world of headache & potentially thousands of dollars. Cars are not meant to sit idle. Fluids break down, seals dry up, rubber cracks, & little critters decide your engine bay is a luxury high-rise.
So, before you even THINK about turning that key, let's walk through this together. Here’s the ultimate checklist, born from experience & a lot of research, to bring your mechanical friend back from its slumber safely & successfully.
The Very First Step: A Thorough Visual Inspection
Before you get your hands dirty, just use your eyes. Walk around the car. What do you see?
- Tires: Are they flat? Almost certainly. But look closer. Do you see deep cracks in the sidewalls? Flat spots are common, but severe dry rot means those tires are NOT safe to drive on, even if they hold air. We’ll get to inflating them later, but for now, just assess their condition.
- Body & Underneath: Look for any obvious fluid leaks on the ground underneath the car. Are there puddles of anything? This could be oil, coolant, or brake fluid. Also, take a peek for any unexpected residents. I’m talking about animals. A stray cat might just be seeking shelter, but a family of raccoons is a different story.
- Interior: Pop open the doors & take a deep breath. Does it smell musty or like mildew? Check for mold on the seats, carpet, & headliner. Look for signs of water intrusion, like stained carpets or rust on the floor pans. This can point to dried-out window seals.
This initial once-over gives you a baseline for the project ahead. It helps you build a mental to-do list & spot any major red flags from the get-go.
The Uninvited Guests: Checking for Rodent Damage
This is a BIG one, & it’s often overlooked. Engine bays are warm, dark, & sheltered—the perfect nesting spot for mice, rats, squirrels, & other critters. They can cause an unbelievable amount of damage in a short time.
Here's what you need to look for when you pop the hood:
- Nests & Debris: This is the most obvious sign. Look for collections of leaves, twigs, shredded insulation, fabric, or paper tucked into corners, near the battery, or in the air filter box.
- Droppings & Urine: Rodent droppings are a dead giveaway. They are small, dark, and cylindrical. You might also notice a foul, ammonia-like smell from their urine. A black light can actually make urine stains glow, which is a neat trick if you have one.
- Chewed Wires: This is the most dangerous & expensive type of rodent damage. Rodents’ teeth constantly grow, so they chew on things to keep them filed down. Unfortunately, the soft plastic coating on your car’s wiring is a favorite chew toy. Carefully inspect every visible wire for gnaw marks. A chewed wire can cause anything from a check engine light to a short circuit that prevents the car from starting or, in a worst-case scenario, an engine fire.
- Gnawed Hoses: They don't just stop at wires. Check all your rubber & plastic hoses—vacuum lines, coolant hoses, washer fluid lines—for chew marks.
If you find evidence of rodents, you have to play detective. You need to assume EVERY wire & hose is suspect until proven otherwise. This is not something to take lightly. A single chewed wire can strand you on the side of the road or cause catastrophic electrical failure.
The Lifeblood: A Deep Dive into Your Car’s Fluids
Just like the blood in our veins, a car's fluids are critical. Over time, these fluids degrade, get contaminated, or leak out. Trying to start an engine with old, sludgy oil or no coolant is a recipe for disaster. Here’s how to tackle each one.
1. Engine Oil: The Most Critical Fluid
Engine oil lubricates all the moving parts of your engine. Old oil loses its viscosity & lubricating properties. Worse, condensation can build up inside a sitting engine, mixing with the oil & turning it into a milky, sludgy mess.
- How to Check: Pull out the dipstick. Wipe it clean with a rag, reinsert it fully, & then pull it out again to check the level.
- What to Look For:
- Level: Is it low? This could indicate a leak.
- Color: Fresh oil is a translucent amber color. Old, used oil is dark brown or black. If it looks milky or like coffee with cream, that’s a sign that coolant is leaking into your oil—a serious problem that could indicate a blown head gasket.
- Consistency: Rub a little between your fingers. It should feel slick. If it feels gritty or has metal particles in it, that's a sign of internal engine wear.
Verdict: DON'T just top it off. Plan on changing the oil & the oil filter before you attempt to start the car. It’s a cheap & easy insurance policy against engine damage.
2. Gasoline: The Varnish in Your Tank
This is probably the most common problem with a car that's been sitting. Modern gasoline, especially ethanol blends, degrades surprisingly quickly. After just a few months, it starts to lose its combustibility. After a year or more, it can turn into a varnish-like substance that will clog EVERYTHING.
- The Dangers of Old Gas: Trying to run an engine on old gas can lead to a whole host of problems: rough idling, sputtering, engine knocking, and clogged fuel lines, fuel injectors, & fuel filters. In some cases, the car won't start at all. The smell is often a giveaway; old gas has a sour, varnish-like odor instead of that crisp, sweet smell of fresh fuel.
- How to Deal with It:
- If it's been sitting for 6 months to a year: You MIGHT be able to get away with diluting it. If the tank is less than a quarter full, filling it up the rest of the way with fresh, high-octane gasoline could be enough.
- If it's been sitting for over a year: You MUST drain the old fuel. It's not worth the risk.
Draining the Tank: You have a few options here. A manual siphon pump is the most common DIY method, but many modern cars have anti-siphon screens in the filler neck. If that’s the case, you may need to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail in the engine bay, run a hose from that line into a gas can, & then jump the fuel pump relay to make the pump do the work for you. This is more advanced, so if you're not comfortable with it, it's best to call a mechanic. SAFETY FIRST: Always work in a well-ventilated area, have a fire extinguisher handy, & use approved containers for gasoline.
3. Coolant (Antifreeze): The Temperature Regulator
Coolant prevents your engine from overheating, but it also has anti-corrosion properties that protect your radiator & engine block. Old coolant becomes acidic & loses its ability to protect against rust.
- How to Check: IMPORTANT: Never open the radiator cap on a hot or even warm engine. It’s under pressure & can cause serious burns. Check the level in the translucent overflow reservoir.
- What to Look For: The coolant should be a vibrant green, pink, or orange color. If it looks rusty, brown, or has stuff floating in it, it’s old & needs to be flushed.
Verdict: If the coolant looks bad or you don't know how old it is, plan on a full drain & fill. This will protect your radiator, water pump, & thermostat.
4. Brake Fluid: Your Stopping Power
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture from the air over time. Water in the brake lines lowers the boiling point of the fluid (leading to brake fade) & can cause internal rust in your brake lines & calipers.
- How to Check: Locate the brake fluid reservoir on the firewall. The fluid should be between the "min" & "max" lines.
- What to Look For: Fresh brake fluid is typically clear or has a slight amber tint. If it’s dark brown or black, it's contaminated & needs to be replaced.
Verdict: If the fluid is dark, it's time to flush the entire system. Brakes are not something you want to gamble on.
5. Transmission & Power Steering Fluid
These fluids don't break down as quickly as oil or gas, but they're still worth checking. Check the transmission fluid with the engine running (once you get it started) & the power steering fluid when it’s cold. Look for the proper levels & for any signs of dark, burnt-smelling fluid, which indicates a problem.
The Spark of Life: Battery & Electrical System
Okay, you've dealt with the critters & the fluids. Now it's time to think about electricity.
- The Battery: After sitting for years, the battery is almost certainly dead. Don't even bother trying to charge it. Lead-acid batteries degrade when left discharged. Just buy a new one. It will save you a lot of frustration. When you install it, make sure the terminals are clean & free of corrosion.
- Fuses & Wires: Do a quick check of the fuse box. Look for any blown fuses. This, combined with your rodent check, can give you clues about potential electrical gremlins.
Waking the Engine: The Moment of Truth
You've done the prep work. The oil is fresh, the gas is new, the battery is charged. You're ready. But don't just crank it over for 30 seconds straight.
- Prime the Fuel System: After replacing the fuel, the lines are full of air. You need to get fuel up to the engine. The easiest way to do this is to turn the key to the "On" position (without starting the engine) for a few seconds. You should hear the fuel pump whir. Turn the key off, then back on again. Do this 3-4 times to build pressure in the fuel rail.
- Prime the Oil System (Optional but Recommended): This is an old-school mechanic's trick. To get oil circulating before the engine starts under its own power, you can disable the ignition system (by unplugging the coil packs, for example) & crank the engine for 10-15 seconds. This allows the oil pump to push fresh oil through the engine's passages, lubricating the bearings & cylinder walls before they're put under load.
- The First Start: Re-enable the ignition system. Cross your fingers. Turn the key. It might not fire up perfectly on the first try. It might run rough for a few seconds as it works out the last of the air & settles into an idle.
- Listen & Look: Once it’s running, don't just celebrate. GET OUT of the car & look & listen.
- Look: Are there any new, active leaks? Is there smoke coming from somewhere it shouldn't be?
- Listen: Do you hear any loud knocking, tapping, or grinding sounds? A little bit of valvetrain noise that quiets down after a few seconds can be normal as the lifters pump up, but any persistent, loud noises mean you should shut it down immediately.
Let it run for a few minutes to get up to temperature, keeping a close eye on the temperature gauge. Make sure it stays in the normal range.
Post-Start Checklist: You're Not Done Yet!
Getting it started is a huge milestone, but the job isn't over.
- Brakes: The brakes might be seized from sitting. Once the car is running, pump the brake pedal a few times. It should feel firm. When you first try to move the car, be prepared for some grinding noises as the rust on the rotors gets scraped off. Test them GENTLY in a safe area before you even think about hitting the road.
- Tires: Inflate the tires to the recommended pressure. Check them again after a few hours to see if they're holding air. Even if they are, remember what we said about dry rot. If they're cracked, replace them.
- Belts & Hoses: With the engine off, give all the belts & hoses another once-over. Squeeze them. Are they soft & spongy or hard & brittle? If so, they need to be replaced.
Long-Term Storage & Earning Potential
Maybe this whole process has you thinking about how the car was stored in the first place. If it was just sitting in the yard, you've seen firsthand how damaging that can be. For the future, proper storage is key. But finding a clean, dry garage can be tough & expensive.
Here's a pretty cool thought: what if you could find an affordable, private garage to rent right in your neighborhood? That's where a service like Prked comes in. It's a platform that connects people who have extra space—like an empty garage—with people who need it. You could find a secure spot to keep your project car safe from the elements & pests.
On the flip side, maybe you're the one with an empty garage bay where this car wasn't sitting. You could be making some extra cash! Listing your unused driveway, garage, or even a storage shed on Prked is a fantastic way to generate some passive income. You could be helping someone else protect their classic car while making money off a space that's just sitting there. It's a win-win.
Final Thoughts
Bringing a car back to life after a long slumber is one of the most rewarding experiences a car person can have. It’s a process of patience, diligence, & a little bit of mechanical sympathy. Rushing the process is a surefire way to turn a dream project into a nightmare. By following this checklist, you're not just trying to start a car; you're giving it a proper, respectful revival.
Hope this was helpful! Taking your time now will absolutely pay off when you're finally able to cruise down the road in your resurrected ride. Let me know what you think, & good luck with your project
