8/11/24

So You Want to Run Armored Ethernet to Your Garage? Here’s How the Pros Do It.

Hey there, fellow home improvement & tech enthusiast. Let's talk about something that might seem a little niche, but is becoming more & more essential in our hyper-connected world: running a proper, hardwired ethernet connection from your house to your garage.
Maybe you're tired of the garage Wi-Fi sputtering out right when you're trying to follow a YouTube tutorial for changing your oil. Maybe you're setting up a workshop, a home gym, a serious gaming den, or even a full-on office in there. Or, hey, maybe you're thinking about the future—electric vehicles, smart garage doors, robust security cameras... they all work better with a solid, reliable internet connection.
Whatever your reason, you've come to the right place. I’ve been down this road myself, and I’m here to tell you it's ABSOLUTELY a project you can tackle. Forget those spotty Wi-Fi extenders or unreliable powerline adapters. We're talking about a permanent, high-speed, weatherproof solution. We're talking about running armored ethernet cable.
This is the definitive guide to getting that sweet, sweet gigabit connection to your detached garage. We'll cover everything from planning the route to burying the cable & getting it all connected.

First Things First: Why Bother With a Wire?

I get it. In a world of "wireless everything," digging a trench sounds like a lot of work. But here’s the thing: for a detached garage, a wired connection is simply unbeatable for a few key reasons:
  • Speed & Reliability: Wi-Fi is great, but it's susceptible to interference from walls, appliances, & even your neighbor's network. A direct ethernet connection gives you a consistent, full-speed link that won't drop out. We're talking 935 Mbps or more on a gigabit connection.
  • Security: A hardwired connection is inherently more secure than a wireless one.
  • Future-Proofing: As our homes get smarter, the demand for reliable connectivity in all corners of our property is only going to grow. Running a cable now sets you up for whatever tech comes next. You might even want to run more than one cable while you're at it—it's cheap insurance for the future!

The Big Debate: Direct Burial Cable vs. Conduit

Alright, this is the first major decision you'll need to make. When you're running a cable underground, you have two primary options:
  1. Direct Burial Cable: This is a special type of ethernet cable designed to be, you guessed it, buried directly in the ground. It features a super tough, waterproof, & often UV-resistant jacket (usually made of Polyethylene or LLDPE) that protects the delicate wires inside from moisture, soil, & temperature changes. Many direct burial cables are also "gel-filled" or have water-blocking tape, which provides an extra layer of protection against any nicks or cuts in the jacket.
  2. Conduit: This involves burying a pipe (usually PVC) & then pulling a standard outdoor-rated ethernet cable through it. Think of it as creating a protected tunnel for your cable.
So, which one is better? Honestly, there are strong arguments for both.
  • The Case for Direct Burial: It's simpler & often cheaper upfront because you're not buying conduit. The cable itself is engineered for this exact purpose, with robust CMX jackets that resist the elements. Some experts even argue that a deeply buried direct burial cable is less likely to fail over time than a cable in a conduit, because conduits can sometimes trap moisture from condensation.
  • The Case for Conduit: This is the "belt & suspenders" approach. It offers SUPERIOR physical protection. If you're worried about accidentally hitting the cable with a shovel in the future, or if you have pesky rodents, conduit is your best friend. The other HUGE advantage is future upgrades. If, in 10 years, you need to run a fiber optic cable or a newer category of ethernet, you can just pull the old cable out & pull the new one through the existing conduit without digging a new trench.
My two cents? For most residential projects, a high-quality, armored, direct-burial ethernet cable is perfectly sufficient, especially if you bury it properly. But if you're the kind of person who likes to over-engineer things for peace of mind or you anticipate needing to upgrade in the future, the extra work of laying conduit is a worthwhile investment. Even with conduit, you should STILL use an outdoor or direct-burial rated cable inside it; never use indoor cable underground.

Choosing Your Weapon: The Right Kind of Armored Cable

Not all "outdoor" cables are created equal. When you're shopping, you'll see a few key terms. Here's what they mean for your garage project:
  • Category (Cat): This determines your speed & bandwidth. For a new installation today, Cat6 or Cat6a is the way to go. They both support gigabit speeds, & Cat6a can handle 10Gbps over longer distances, which is fantastic for future-proofing. Don't skimp & go for Cat5e unless you have some lying around; the cost difference for new cable is minimal.
  • Shielded (FTP/STP) vs. Unshielded (UTP): Shielded cable has an extra layer of foil or braided metal inside that protects against electromagnetic interference (EMI). You'd want this if you're running the ethernet cable parallel to a high-voltage power line. For a simple run across the yard, unshielded is often fine, as the earth itself provides some grounding. However, shielded cable is the safer bet for maximum performance.
  • Jacket Type (CMX): This is non-negotiable for this project. CMX is the rating for outdoor-rated cable jackets. They are designed to withstand UV rays, water, & extreme temperatures without cracking or degrading like indoor PVC jackets would.
  • "Armored": This is the key for maximum durability. Armored cable usually means there's a layer of steel wire or tape integrated into the cable construction. This gives it serious protection from being crushed or cut by rocks or a stray shovel. It's the ultimate peace of mind for direct burial.
So, the ideal cable for this job is an Armored, Shielded, Direct Burial Cat6 or Cat6a cable with a CMX jacket.

The Project: A Step-by-Step Guide

Alright, you've got your plan & you've picked your cable. Let's get our hands dirty.

Step 1: Planning & Prep

  • Map Your Route: Walk the path from your house to your garage. Choose the straightest, shortest route possible. Mark it out with spray paint or flags.
  • CALL 811! I cannot stress this enough. Before you dig ANYWHERE, you MUST call your local utility locating service. It's a free service. They'll come out & mark the location of any buried power, gas, water, or communication lines. Hitting one of those is not just expensive, it's incredibly dangerous.
  • Gather Your Tools: You'll need a good shovel or a trenching spade, a drill with a long bit, outdoor-rated silicone sealant, fish tape (if using conduit), & your cable termination tools (we'll get to those later).

Step 2: The Trenching

This is the most labor-intensive part, so put on some music & get ready for a workout.
  • How Deep to Bury Ethernet Cable? For a low-voltage cable like ethernet, you don't need to go as deep as electrical lines. A depth of 12 to 18 inches is generally recommended. This provides good protection from casual digging. Some folks go as shallow as 6-8 inches, but deeper is always better if you can manage it. Doing this after a good rain can make the digging a lot easier.
  • Digging the Trench: A trenching shovel is your best friend here. It's designed to create a narrow, clean trench. Aim for a width of about 4-6 inches.
  • Smooth it Out: Once your trench is dug, go through & remove any large, sharp rocks from the bottom. It's a good idea to lay down a thin layer of sand at the bottom of the trench for the cable to rest on. This provides a nice, smooth bed for it.

Step 3: Laying the Cable or Conduit

  • Drill Your Holes: At both the house & the garage, you'll need to drill a hole through the exterior wall (usually the rim joist of the foundation) to feed the cable inside. Drill from the inside out, slightly angled down towards the outside to prevent water from following the cable into your house.
  • For Direct Burial: Carefully lay your armored cable in the trench. Don't pull it super taut; leave a little bit of slack to account for ground settling & temperature changes. Feed the ends through the holes into your house & garage, leaving plenty of extra cable on both ends to work with.
  • For Conduit: Assemble your PVC conduit sections using PVC cement to ensure watertight seals. Use gentle "sweeps" (long, curved elbows) for any turns instead of sharp 90-degree angles, as this will make pulling the cable MUCH easier. Lay the assembled conduit in the trench. Now, use fish tape to pull your outdoor-rated ethernet cable through the conduit.

Step 4: Backfilling the Trench

You're almost there!
  1. Add More Sand/Fine Gravel: Put another layer of sand or fine gravel over the cable or conduit.
  2. Warning Tape: This is a pro tip. About 6 inches above your cable, lay a brightly colored "Buried Cable Below" warning tape along the length of the trench. This will save you (or a future homeowner) a massive headache years from now.
  3. Fill it In: Carefully backfill the trench with the soil you removed, compacting it down as you go to prevent it from sinking later.

Step 5: Terminating & Testing

This is where the magic happens. You need to attach connectors to the ends of the cable. You can either terminate with an RJ45 plug (the standard ethernet connector) or install a keystone jack in a wall plate for a cleaner look.
  • Tools Needed: You'll need an RJ45 crimping tool, wire strippers, flush cutters, & your connectors (plugs or jacks). For shielded & direct burial cable, which is thicker, a "pass-through" style crimper & connectors are a GODSEND. They let you slide the individual wires all the way through the connector, so you can verify the correct order before you crimp.
  • The Process: Terminating shielded cable is a bit more involved than standard cable because you also have to deal with the foil shield & a drain wire. It's a detailed process, but there are tons of great video tutorials online that walk you through it step-by-step. The key is to be patient & precise.
  • Test, Test, Test! BEFORE you plug your expensive equipment in, you need to test your work. A simple ethernet cable tester is an inexpensive tool that will verify that each of the 8 wires inside the cable is correctly connected from end to end. If you get all green lights, you're golden!

You've Got a Connected Garage! Now What?

Congratulations! You now have a rock-solid, high-speed internet connection in your garage. This opens up a world of possibilities:
  • A killer workshop with online plans & tutorials at your fingertips.
  • A home gym where you can stream workouts without buffering.
  • A reliable connection for a 4K security camera system.
  • A home office that's truly separate from the main house.
Here's another cool idea. Now that your garage is fully connected & functional, have you ever considered its potential to earn you some extra cash? A clean, secure, & accessible garage is a valuable asset. With a service like Prked, you can easily list your garage or even just a driveway spot for rent. Prked connects people who need parking with homeowners like you who have extra space. With your new wired connection, you could even offer a premium spot with a reliable EV charging station, all managed through a smart system. It's a pretty cool way to have your new project pay for itself. Or if you used the space for a workshop & now have a bunch of stuff to store, Prked also helps you find affordable, local storage by connecting you with neighbors who have empty garages, attics, or basements.
I hope this guide was helpful & gives you the confidence to tackle this project. It's a rewarding one that adds real value & functionality to your home. Taking the time to do it right—using armored cable, burying it properly, & testing your connections—will ensure you have a flawless connection for years to come.
Let me know what you think, & happy trenching
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